V-Flyer

After spending 9 days in Libya, photographing and dodging the occasional landmine and celebratory bullets, it was time to head home via IST.

After a few hours sleep, I got up, ate breakfast in the hotel restaurante (included in room rate) and checked out. Reception had said they would get a taxi for me, but no one showed up. While I was outside, I asked one of the soldiers at the checkpoint if I could borrow his phone to call a taxi (calls are free in the eastern half of Libya because the mobile phone companies were state owned and are not functioning yet). He asked where I was going, and offered to drive me.

We left the hotel at around 08:15, passing through various army checkpoints on the way to the airport. I arrived at BEN at 8:55. He said if I didn't have any money to pay him, it was ok. I had 20LYD (£8), about twice what a taxi usually costs to the airport, but I just gave it to him. 20LYD is probably more than what he makes in a day, and being I could afford it, I had no complaints about giving it to him. (The average Libyan state worker made 300-500LYD/month (only about 14-23LYD/day!)

I entered the international side of the terminal where my bags were x-rayed and I walked through the metal detector. My satphone, other phones, and wallet were not x-rayed. I found the queue for check in/bag drop for the IST flight and got in it. (Oh my God, what is this? This is Libya and people are queuing!!!??) I only waited about 15 minutes or so before I was seen. I asked if I wanted my bag checked all the way through to LHR (I did) and it was tagged and I was handed my boarding pass. This time it had my name and all my flight info on it. My passport was also checked. (There is no way to check in online for this flight, it must be done at the airport)

I then made my way through passport control where I was given my exit stamp. Security was only a few metres away and I placed my bag on the belt to be x-rayed. I didn't have to take my jacket, shoes, or belt off, and my phones and wallet weren't x-rayed. I was in the middle of taking everything out of my pockets but the guy just waved me through. I set off the metal detector of course, but I wasn't given a pat down or asked to go through it again.

Boarding was supposed to be called at 09:50, but it wasn't called until 10:04. My boarding pass was stamped and the small bit handed back to me. I boarded the bus for the 100m or so to the plane.

I boarded the plane and took seat 20A. Two oil workers, a Canadian and a Brit sat next to me. Oddly enough, the Brit lives almost literally around the corner from me in London. Small world!!

Pushback was at 10:49 - 14 minutes late

We taxied along the military side of the airport, offering great views of the planes and helicopters based there.

Some of the Military hardware at the airport:









Takeoff was at 10:56 with an expected flying time of 2:05 at 37,000ft.

Menus and headphones were handed out shortly after takeoff. The menu was very similar to my LHR-IST flight and I had the beef this time, which was excellent. In fact the whole meal was good. The three of us each had beer or wine, and asked for two when the drinks were served, which they gave us. It was my first drink in two weeks (alcohol is illegal in Libya), and almost 6 weeks for the other two. I fell asleep for a bit and talked with the guys for the rest of the time.

Landing was at 12:56, 14 minutes early, with a short 5 minute taxi to the gate. We deplaned and made our way to passport control.

You need to buy a visa sticker for your passport, but it is easily obtained and is a 90 day multiple entry visa (very generous I think). It costs either £10 or $20. The Brit I was with didn't have £, so they said he could pay in $, which he did. I tried to pay in £, but since I have a US passport, they told me I couldn't and it had to be in $. We asked the cashier if the $20 he gave could be for my sticker, and the £10 I have be used for his, but apparently that isn't OK. Annoying! Luckily I had $ on me, so I paid the $20 and went to the queue, which only took about 5 minutes or so. We met up with the Canadian and split a taxi into central Istanbul and went straight to the pub, where we remained the whole day!

Two of us had flights to catch back to London, so we headed back to the airport around 17:30.

Thanks for posting dhs. Another interesting insight into how the other half of the airline world works.

Thank you for the great TR and pics.