Japan pointers. Part 1 and 2.

Given that a few people had cited a visit a visit to Japan in the New Years resolutions thread I thoght I'd offer up a few pointers bases on my recent trip . Hopefully they'll be of some use .
Arriving in Japan - VS fly into Narita (NRT) which is actually a fair way out of Tokyo. It's a big modern airport with polite helpful staff and we were through immigration and customs within minutes. We were asked by customs if we would mind them searching a bag (Nessy's)- the officer carefully unpacked and re- packed said bag thanking us profusely :0 :0 . If only the TSA were the same.....
There are several options of getting into Tokyo - taxi , bus or rail .If you are staying at a hotel on a route the easiest way into/ out of Tokyo is by Friendly Limousine Bus. These bright orange buses run every 15- 20 mins and a ticket is purchased before boarding. They run on various routes to numerous stations / areas and hotels. The fare to central Tokyo is about 3,000 Yen (£25 ish) but depends on final destion. A taxi from NRT to Tokyo will cost about 21,000 Yen (£180 ish) :0 :0 :0 . Taxis are NOT big and have limited luggage space. If traffic is heavy the fare will be even more.... :0 :0 . Both these options take between 1 hr to 1.5 hours depending on destination. The other option is the Narita express (NEX) which is also 3,000 Yen (£25 ish) but this can be covered if the JR Rail pass is pre- purchased.
Japan is generally expensive. That you can't avoid. If you're expecting cheap internal travel etc forget it :0 .
Ok, talking of internal travel there are several options when it comes to getting around. Internal flights are IME expensive. Depending on your plans a Japan Railways pass might be the answer. This can only be bought by non- residents and has to be bought outside of Japan but it doesn't cover the fastest Shinkanses (bullet train) which is called the Nozomi. Passes can be bought for various time durations and for two classes of travel ie standard and green car (Superior Class). We looked at these as an option but journeys cannot be booked before arriving in Japan and given we were arriving in the busiest holiday of the year (where EVERYBODY travels home) we were worried we would not reach our first destination (Osaka) easily. A weeks JR pass in standard was 28,300 Yen (£240ish) and green car slightly more 37,800 Yen (£320 ish)
So, this lead to option B. Car hire.
Car hire is not cheap :0 but a viable option if there are two or more of you travelling (and /or you have a reasonable ammount of luggage). As there were three of us it seemed a better option and I booked a 5 seater type full size vehicle through Europcar with collection from Narita airport. To drive in Japan an International driving permit has to be obtained in the UK (easy enough at a cost of £5 from the Post Office). Just make sure they issue the right one - it needs to be the Geneva Convention 1949 one. No sat nav was available via Europcar and we did panic a bit as there seems to be nothing available to purchase from Tom Tom or Garmin for existing sat navs. Not to be defeated we bought few detailed road maps on- line and hoped for the best.
On arrival into NRT we headed for the Europcar (ie Mazda Rent a Car) desk where we were processed speedily and taken to the car (an 8 day old Mazda people carrier with factory fitted sat nav!! ). The agent spoke good English and happily programmed in our various destinations as the instructions were all in Japanese (but there was an option for voice command to be altered to English which he did).
Roads in Japan are generally good with excellent service areas every 20 miles or so on Expressways (service areas with petrol stations are every 40 miles or so). The expressways are privately owned and thus generate toll charges. Tolls are EXPENSIVE and are based on distance travelled. Just getting out of Tokyo cost somewhere in the region of £20!! and to our first destination of Osaka about another £150+ :0 . Expect to pay for parking whever you go. Hotels usually have on site parking -often with a turntable and fully automated parking which is awesome!!! Japanese drivers are generally polite and considerate although we did encounter a couple of petrol heads trying to roar past us. DL the Elder did a bit of the driving (until Nessy and I were too fraught !!) and if she can manage anybody can . It's very similar to UK driving - cars are right hand drive (and all are automatic) and lots of the road signs are similar. Petrol is slightly cheaper than in the UK.
We got to see lots we wouldn't have otherwise by hiring a car, including a close up un-interrupted view of Mt Fuji in bright sunshine for a long period of time .
Part 2 to continue in a little while.
Any questions please fire away.
DL
Ok - on to part 2.
Given we'd arrived during the busiest holiday of the year I was expecting heavy traffic. What I hadn't bargained on was the completely static traffic in Tokyo (which we had to cross in it's entireity). It made the M25 look like Speed Race 2000 (and I suffered the great car park that is the M25 for nearly 20 years....). The holiday period did have it's benefits however and meant we saw lots at the temples and shrines that we wouldn't have otherwise.
The first night was spent in Osaka- I'd initially booked a hotel in Nuzumi but figured that as we'd be best off getting as near Kyoto as we could on our first day I cancelled this . Given this was a vey late booked trip all acceptable accomodation in Kyoto was either booked or extortionate (even by my standards... :0 ) so I'd managed to get some rooms in the Osaka Hearton (a Japanese chain). These were scrupulously clean but be warned Japanese rooms are tiny (just like the people).
Osaka was our first experience of "real" Japanese food. Very few people in Japan speak English (save for hotel staff). Consequently breakfast was an experience!!! Lord knows what we ate -some of it was truly vile !!!! The ? smoked eel caused me grief all day and the ?? pressed fish roe was so disgusting that none of us could actually swallow it. The pickled vegetables I passsed on.... :$ . I'm not a fan of tofu but after some of the stuff I've eaten it's become a welcome old friend... .
After Osaka came Kyoto - more small rooms (again in a Hearton hotel). What a fantastic place. Golden Pavillion (fantastic), Gion area (mesmerysing) a zillion temples and shrines. Transportation around the city is easy , either by subway, bus , or on foot.
Japanese transport is without a doubt the best in the world. Clean, efficient, relaible and PUNCTUAL. OMG - to the minute !! If the bus/train / subway is due to leave at 10.12 then that's when it will leave. No earlier, no later. Unbelieveable :0 .
Having realised that returning the car back to NRT would mean driving accross Tokyo (lots of time and lots of tolls) I subsequently arranged to return the car to Haneda airport and we then caught the Friendly Limousine Bus in to central Tokyo (1,500 yen dependent on final destination) to our hotel in Shinjuku (Hilton).
I had originally booked the Four Seasons via Amex FHR as I was quoted an excellent rate. When I got the invoice however the price in £ was over twice what I'd been quoted (eeekkkk)so I cancelled and booked the Hilton Shinjuku instead. As NH has said exec floors are worth booking in Tokyo, and given I've Hilton Au I gambled on being upgraded to the exec floors knowing we'd still get breakfast if we weren't (the exec floor rooms were double the price of standard rooms).
Well ,we were upgraded to the exec floors and had a fantastic stay. I heartily recommend the exec floors at the Hilton. Great views, breakfast served in the lounge, great afternoon tea and a fabulous free cocktail 2 hours between 6-8pm ): ): where a mixologist made cocktails to order (along with wine and champagne). Complimentary food was also served along with the drinks.
Location wise Shinjuku was fantastic. The station is the busiest in the world (you have never seen anything like it)- people being shoved (very genteely) on to trains by men in full uniform , white glovescand peaked caps LOL. Not for the claustrophobic....
What to do in Tokyo? Loads and loads to do .
Part 3 in du course.
DL

Thanks DL, it's definitely on my list so much appreciated - looking forward to Part 2 y)

Great info DL,

We've found the JR rail pass the way to go. It sounds expensive initially, but the NEX is very convenient for getting into Tokyo (clean/ modern spacious trains, with decent luggage space) and quick/ hassle free to the main Tokyo station. The pass also allows use on variety of main tube lines within Tokyo itself.
Plus you are then free to jump on trains out to the rest of Japan, we've used for trips out to Kyoto (a must), and Nagano (snow monkey region). Plus obviously if time available the rest of the country..
You don't need Green car pass, as the trains especially Bullets are spacious/ tonnes of legroom, clean and modern facilities, trolley service (attendant bowing each time they arrive in the carriage), with quite limited luggage storage (it is Japan after all, they don't do space..). Nozomi trains only save a bit of time, compared to standard ones, so no great loss.
We arrived un-booked for a train to Kyoto to be told all the pre-bookable seats were gone....Eeek :0 , so walked down to the platform and the unreserved carriages had loads of room, so again no major fear of not having pre-booked seats.

Tip: Your luggage should be escalator friendly and kept to a minimum(we like upright duffle styles), as you'll find you need to carry/wheel. Trolleys aren't easily available.

On our fist trip I was in 2 minds on the JR pass, but Tink did persuade me it was the best way, and in hind sight will strongly agree and will do again.

The stations especially Tokyo main and places like Shinjuku can be a bit overwhelming on first acquaintance but keep a level head and you soon see they are well organised and easy to follow, I would say less complicated than say NYC. The only issue is the scale of the stations, they are enormous, and can be busy- but this is Japan after all and people are courteous and helpful and the whole place feels very safe.

Costs add up in japan....the pass route does help to quantify a bulk of your travel costs upfront. Plus taxi's other than late at night for local convenience are also pricey, do as the Japanese, use the subway, it puts the rest of the worlds transit systems to shame..But avoid rush-hour this is a other level of crowding.. :0 ) - well worth going into the stations to view as you won't believe what you see... )
NH

Thanks you for the great detail - most useful stuff, look forward to more.

Thanks for taking the time to provide all that useful info - looking forward to the next instalment!

Try not to do certain things that may be innocent over here in public, or atleast be discrete such as blowing your nose, walking and eating , check about shoes when you enter certain places like restaurants and especially temples etc
Central Tokyo not so much of an issue generally as VERY cosmopolitan, but manners are key, shame some of our American cousins don't read up on this we witnessed some extremely bad form on more than one occasion.....
Using mobiles on trains also bad form, everyone texts. Bowing isn't necessary just being polite and hand shakes are acceptable.
Don't miss out on some fantastic food halls in basements of most big department stores, great ready meal bento boxes etc. as eating in restaurants every night will require a 2nd mortgage!
Executive lounges are worth the upgrade for breakfasts and evening drinks, especially if you want wine, as buying when your out is serious ££££
Ramen and yakitori bars good value, food is very safe as is water, remember the nuclear incident is miles away, you will have more exposure visiting Cornwall..( literally!)