Oh the howls of disbelief from my South African friends in the UK and there, when they heard my news. "It's too dangerous! Why aren't you flying? Are you sure?" was the refrain.
Thanks to the superb information on Seat 61 I was more than reassured by the safety of the trip I was making.
I'll admit, it was with a certain trepidation that I approached Johannesburg station. The area around train stations in any country can sometimes be dodgy (think Kings Cross in times past) but Johannesburg does come with a reputation.
Lugging my two suitcases from my friends car, I was clearly signposted as a tourist, and indeed we were approached by a beggar. My friend told him to go away, politely, and he did.
The station itself reminded me of a shopping centre, but with a handful of shops - quite modern and tidy.
I walked down the escalator which was out of order and found the Premier Classe lounge and 'check-in'. My two suitcases were labelled and I was invited to sit down for a hot or cold drink and a snack while waiting for boarding.
The lounge was more like a waiting room, but away from the main station so much more private. By this time my excitement level was off the scale! A 25 hour rail journey about to commence!!!!
The train manager introduced himself and announced that boarding would start at 2.30pm. It was a short walk down to the platform and there was our train! Painted purple!
I was invited to join everyone in the dining car at 2.55pm for welcome drinks, so in the meantime I went to my cabin.
Four fluffy pillows - check!
Bottled water - check!
Newspaper - check!
Itinerary - check!
Telephone - check!
Toiletries - check!
Towels - check!
Slippers - check!
Bathrobes - check!
The seats were very comfortable - and of course, I had the cabin to myself!
One thing to note is that the showers and loo were at the end of the cabin. Now, they were spotless. A lockable door, naturally. The shower had a changing area and then you walked through a frosted glass door to the shower room itself. Fantastic water pressure and spotless.
The toilet was very clean too - and the room always smelt fresh. Virgin Trains take note!!
This was the main dining room for our section of the train.
Again, very comfortable seating, this is the tables before they were made up for dining.
After some sparkling wine, and an introduction to the onboard staff, (I decided to book a treatment in the onboard 'spa') we had coffee and cake! I met some of my fellow travellers and enjoyed a drink as the train lazily snaked through the 'suburbs' of Johannesburg.
Our host then asked if we were happy to dine in our groups, which was fine. My fellow traveller was a young man who worked in a goldmine, loved travelling, and hadn't told his parents he was onboard because they would complain he was wasting money... (I'll tell you the price at the end).
I then decided to take a walk through the train.
This was the bar
I went back to my cabin and rested. It had been a long afternoon!
I went to the carriage that had been converted to a treatment room and had a rather uncomfortable massage - I was more delicate than I thought and the first ten minutes were painful... but the masseuse was friendly and we chatted away.
Dinner Is Served
At 7pm I found my table, and my new friend, and sat down for dinner. We had a table for four, made up for two, so very spacious.
This was the menu
Kingklip is delicious! As a rule, I don't go for fish, but I was on holiday and my goodness I am glad I tried it!
The other courses were very tasty too - served with a smile! I took some pictures but to be honest they didn't come out very well and that wasn't because my dining partner wouldn't share the bottle of wine I ordered. Or anything.
I then went to the bar where I discovered that payment for drinks was made at the end of the trip - very civilised! Drinks were cheap. A bottle of wine with dinner, (a good South African wine too) was about £5.00. I had to do a double take at the prices. And watch my drinking!
Onwards into the night our train travelled...
I headed back to my cabin to discover that it had been made up for turn down.
Next morning, having arranged my wake up call the night before, I opted for an early morning one, and watched the erm, scenery go by.
This part of South Africa, the Karoo Desert was cold and rather bleak, however the sunshine took the edge of both at this time of the morning.
Soon, it was breakfast time, and a fully cooked breakfast was offered - as well as pastries, cereals, yogurts, the lot!
The scenery improved as we got closer to Cape Town, as vineyards and orchards came into view.
Back to the bar, for some pre lunch drinks, then back to my cabin for a snooze.
Some of the tables were already being set up for lunch.
Lunch was a four course affair, and as usual, the tables were set up with fresh flowers and crisp linen. That's Doctor Who Magazine in case you're wondering...
Before long, Table Mountain came into view, and we were approaching journeys end.
There were also some reminders of the extremes in living standards that exists in South Africa.
There was a small meet and greet lounge in Cape Town, where I waited to be collected by a friend I hadn't seen in over five years!
Cape Town station was stunning and I had a wander around.
And that was Premier Classe from Johannesburg Station. Some of my fellow passengers commented that they had been on Rovos Rail and The Blue Train, but preferred the informal atmosphere on the Premier Classe service.
I would definitely do it again, and I think incorporate it into my next trip to South Africa.
The cost?
- Travel from Johannesburg to Cape Town
- Sole use of a double occupancy cabin
- Coffee and cake
- Five course dinner
- Full breakfast
- Four course lunch
- Welcome drinks in lounge
How does £171 sound? (Full fare!)
I think its the best value travel I have ever experienced.
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