Arrived at the airport and it did feel odd not driving up to the Upper Class suite - walking through the departures hall cannot compare, particularly when I had to pass smoker after smoker to get to zone B. Check in was not too impressive to be honest, I had to wind past all the economy queues to get to the First Class check in, which was quiet, though I had to wait a few minutes and I do not think the person in front at the desk was travelling First. Having left check in, someone did materialise immediately to return my luggage trolley for me, however. I was soon through Fast Track security (fairly quick - but did not have the exclusive feel that the fast track through Upper Class Security has) and it was on to the lounge.
Now - I would never prioritise a lounge experience over in-flight comfort, so I was fairly certain that the Cathay First Class lounge would not compare to the Virgin clubhouse. I was right, but perhaps I did not realise the extent to which it would not compare, however! On the plus side - good view and nice seats - though brown seems to be the order of the day with Cathay - and it was quiet. But the food was dried up and pretty limited, no waiter service and no staff to see at all really - apart from the odd member of staff clearing tables. Had to leave the First Class section to use the washrooms - where everything took longer because the automatic tap and soap dispenser were not actually that automatic and much hand waving was needed to get anything done. I had work to do so did not get to explore the business class area - but overall I am afraid that Cathay's lounge offering was nowhere near either Virgin's or BA's.
After a straightforward boarding call to an empty lounge - it was on to the the First Class cabin. Now up to this point I admit I had been having regretful thoughts about not booking VS - my usual route to HK though on this occasion I preferred the timings for CX and the pricings for a flexible ticket were pretty similar - but as soon as I saw my suite all thoughts were banished. I have enjoyed the leg space in the VS upper class suites - but loathe facing other people or their feet and having my back to the windows. The ridiculousness of the VS mini table and light are major flaws I think. After the initial joy in UC of having leg space and ottoman, the coffin type sides become a little claustrophobic, I find - at least on the always packed 340 to Hong Kong. On other routes in a 737, being up in the nose of the plane is slightly different - though there is a similar lack of privacy unless you are in the front two seats. Dn't know about the new configurations, however. But on this flight I not only had a seat from which I could not see anyone else - but I had 3 windows to my side and more space for my belongings and me than in my first room at university! Masses of table space along the ledge by the three windows, numerous areas for storage, my own cupboard for my coat and bag. Pockets and storage all around.
The seat was double size with an adjustable footrest and a jump seat opposite (with seatbelt). Unlike VS my bags could be placed underneath the seat - and did not need to be locked away. The first class cabin consisted of just 6 suites (not that I could actually see anyone else) so it felt exclusive - so very different from the lines of UC on my previous trips to HK.....unsurprisingly service was excellent - FSM introduced herself and from then on service could not be faulted. Not as clearly "trendy" as VS with its purple and reds - lots of brown here again - but who cares on a 12 hours flight where you entirely inhabit your own space and sit however you like in your massive suite.
I quietly suspected that the food might not be up to much (one can't have everything) so was unbelievably surprised to find that this was truly fine dining in the air - Krug champagne, caviar and smoked salmon appetiser, soup, main course of pork, followed by fresh berries and cream afterwards. Sorry there are not more details - I was too busy enjoying it all to note it down. Superb throughout. Breakfast after a good sleep consisted of properly fried eggs and bacon (could not quite bring myself to ask for scrambled eggs after a fairly scary experience with these on VS - but may try on the return journey) and a banana and strawberry smoothie.
So - to the bed. I have long been concerned about the hardness of the UC beds - and have used the duvet cover as an extra mattress whilst using my own blanket which I bring. No chance of an extra mattress it seems, on request. After I went to clean my teeth and change - stunning Shanghai Tang pyjamas (and an extra set offered so I could take one back for my teenage daughter who covets such things) and to work my way through the treasures in the beautiful "amenity pack" - for ladies a leather clutch bag filled with hairbrush, various potions and pots - the bed was made up and both in width and comfort and the quality of the bedding it was vastly superior. Large, soft pillow too. Lots of other things I could mention and will only briefly - 2 adjustable lights (not shining in anyone else's eyes here), large screen on the TV and excellent IFA options (including camera underneath the plane and proper destination map) separate headphone storage unit and an easy to reach handset, clean and double sized toilets with real hand towels, not paper, and probably lots of other things I was enjoying myself too much to recall now. The service was excellent throughout - friendly, unobtrusive and skilled. I arrived as fresh as if it had been a domestic flight ....and felt truly indulged. Not a feeling I have had whilst flying recently I must admit. At HK it took literally minutes before we were off the plane and a short walk and fast train shuttle took us to a surprisingly empty immigrations hall - then in no time at all I was reunited with my bags and the driver of the hotel limousine who phoned ahead to confirm my arrival -and soon I was in my room being checked in at the Island Shangri-La less than an hour after landing. This is a record for me.
And if you are reading this thinking that clearly you cannot compare First Class and Business Class/Upper Class - I would like to point out that flying FC with CX cost less than the equivalent flexible ticket in UC with Virgin. Whilst CX might not have the purple haze of being cool and trendy - or the clubhouse - believe me it does have everything else and I am afraid that I would find it very difficult to head back to those narrow coffins on VS, which is a shame as I have long supported Virgin and all it has tried to do. But money and comfort count!
