Japan January 2015

LHR-NRT is another route that we're going to miss, but we were lucky enough to scoop a couple of Reward seats flying from LHR on 13 January and returning from NRT on 29 January.

Our last visit was Tokyo based, and only for four days; a fellow flyer, at the bar, concluded that we were totally bonkers flying to Tokyo for a four day holiday but, it was worth it!

So, I'm armed with the most up-to-date Lonely Planet Guide and various other travel books, and looking for additional suggestions from fellow v-flyers of where to travel to, where to stay, where to eat and drink, and what to see.

Bonus points are available if you, also, point us towards interesting shopping experiences.

Tokyo is, obviously, a priority as Lauren loves Miss Kitty, Pikachu, comics, toys, clubs and bars.

We are intending to invest in a Japan Rail pass as Osaka, Kyoto, Hiroshima and Kobe all have points of interest and are relatively smaller cities.

Lauren is also keen to see the Snow monkeys and foxes.

Hotel wise; our last stay was two nights in The Peninsula and two in the Mandarin Oriental.

Other suggestions are welcome and we are intending to book one night in a capsule hotel, simply for the experience, especially as it appears that there are capsule hotels that cater for couples.

ClubHouse passes (2) available to the house trained, well-dressed and articulate, as we do enjoy decent conversation, at LHR on 6 and NRT on 29 January.

OH WOW!!!
well where to start lol
If its Tokyo we usually look to stay in Shinjuku as this gives easy access to most things in Tokyo, because a lot of lines pass through (chuo line, yamanote line etc). Kichijoji, Akihabara, Shibua and Harajuku are all really close especially if you take the rapid trains!! Tokyo station is 14mins.
Shinjuku has all the shops you could desire (takashimaya and a massive Yodobashi too). If thats not enough Shibuya and Omotesando are also only a few stops away. Takashimaya has two restaurant flows (F13 and F14) where there are a great variety of restaurants. The basement has lots of deli places and a supermarket.
There is also a Hello Kitty land in Tokyo too!!!
Kyoto - The Granvia is great as its at the Station and you can get almost anywhere in Kyoto from there(ofcourse you could also stay in a ryokan in Gion for a more authentic experience (a place called Yuzuya is ideally located). Higashi Gion is nice especially at night and ofcourse Gion is really nice and if you are there in the evenings (from 6pm) you may be lucky enough to spot Geiko and Meiko. Pontocho is also nice and has lots of nice restaurants too and a nice old fashioned coffee shop.
In Kyoto if the weather is good then I would recommend Kinkakuji Temple (the golden temple - the one in my Avatar). Also Maruyama Park is nice and has some nice temples and gardens, oh and Arashiyama is fantastic too.
My knowledge on Osaka is a bit limited as have only been there a couple of times.
I did Hiroshima as a day trip from Kyoto and found the museum very moving indeed.
Definitely get a JR Pass. I also found it good to have a Suica (tokyo oyster card), you can pick this up at NRT.
Apologies for going on a bit. Just love Tokyo. And also if I have mentioned stuff you already know.
If you think I could be helpful just PM me and I will do my best.

gfonk

Fantastic; your response has been extremely helpful; lots of ideas to assimilate.

I have the LP Guide, Japan by Rail and DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 Tokyo. Anticipate PM, in due course.

This will be a trip of, in Lauren's words, awesomeness.

Ditto all that gfonk said.

If you're planning on going to Hiroshima, the A-Bomb Dome etc is a morning or afternoon but not much more. We didn't go to the museum because we couldn't face it, I was already quite emotional. Strange as it may seem to recommend but there is an Italian restaurant on the riverside near the dome in the park, and it made a nice change from the Japanese food and it was very nice. We walked into Hiroshima for shopping, near the park, but it was meh.

Whilst your down that way I can heartily recommend Miyajima Island, a little piece of paradise about 40 minutes, no more, out of Hiroshima. You can use your JR Pass to get there, and then you take a 10 minute ferry (also covered by the pass). It has a famous Shinto shrine and floating Torii gate, when the tide comes in at night it sits on the water and is lit. There are wild deer walking through the small town, very people friendly, and I know there are monkeys somewhere but we didn't see them.

Stay at a ryokan, I can highly recommend this one, not cheap but nice! http://www.iwaso.com/english/

It's a small town, with lots of shops, mostly same stuff. It's also famous for a maple shaped sponge cake with various fillings (yummy). There's a mountain and you walk so far, then take a cable car to a viewing platform, and then, if you're in the mood and fit enough, you can walk the remaining 700 metre climb to the summit. There's a shrine part way up and an eternal flame that, apparently, has been burning constantly for about 1000 years. It's at least worth an overnight, we stayed 2 days and didn't see the whole island.

Takashimaya in Shinjuku as gfonk says has restaurants on 13/14 floor. I can't remember which floor but we ate at a restaurant specialising in tempura and it was excellent. Any of the department stores, and many of the small shops take gift wrapping to another level so whenever you buy anything - ask for gift wrap!

If you haven't been on your last trip, Asakusa is a nice part of Tokyo. It's the old entertainment quarter, central to it is the Shinto shrine and Senso-ji temple, lots of Japanese on pilgrimage, and the kaminarimon gate and shopping street which leads to the temple. Lots of nice places to eat, some decent cheap Izakayas for a real local feel.

I also highly recommend Hakone National Park - stay in a ryokan in any of the villages, accessed by a switchback train, which goes to Gora, after that you have to take a cable car if you want to go over the mountains to other villages. About an hour out of Tokyo. Google Yosegi - this is the region to buy this wood craft, and I have a couple of 'secret' boxes. Go over to lake Ashi and ride the pirate ships across the lake to one of the towns in the area. Kitsch fun!

Hope that helps.

Bretty

Many thanks for the information; the trip is, now, beginning to come together!

We will, definitely, be staying in a ryokan which, I understand, is the only place, in Japan, that you would add a tip to your account.

I'm flying out of LHR on VS900 to NRT on Jan 6th, too. I'll be wedged in 5K or at the bar. Cabin seems to be filling up, so get your seats. It's funny, I've lived here for 16 years yet you all seem to have been to more places than me.

I second everything Bretty said too!!
@keyetty wow 16 years!! nice!!
I guess its the same though for me living here in UK, I can count on one hand how many places I have visited in Europe!!
Our next trip to Japan (my seventh time) will be only to Tokyo!! Im looking forward to it.

NV43 - dont know how your schedule is panning out but Kanezawa is also possible as a day trip from Kyoto, there is an amazing castle there!!. I think the new bullet train service from Tokyo to Kanezawa doesnt start till spring 2015.
If you are in to Castles then there is also a nice one at Himeji which you will be able to see from the shinkansen on your way to Hiroshima. Like Bretty I was also really moved in Hiroshima, it was a very emotional day. I have to admit that I could not finish the whole of the museum, I had to leave half way through.
Ah forgot to say that if you want to get a view of Mount Fuji then sit on the right side of the train when travelling to Kyoto from Tokyo.
Looking forward to hearing about your trip.
We have been making a list of possible restaurants to go to in Tokyo!

Yes a ryokan is the only place where a tip is acceptable, but tip your Nakai san when you get to your room and put it in an envelope, if you can a Shugi Bukuro which is an envelope for money gifts. Present it with both hands and say "Domo arigato gozaimas". She will try to reject it out of politeness but it will show you understand the culture a little.

Hardly anyone at a ryokan will speak English but you'll have fun communicating, and the food is awesome!

I'm flying out of LHR on VS900 to NRT on Jan 6th, too. I'll be wedged in 5K or at the bar. Cabin seems to be filling up, so get your seats. It's funny, I've lived here for 16 years yet you all seem to have been to more places than me.

We selected our seats just after the seat map opened; from memory we are in 11A and 12A; not overlooked and neither to near, or too far, from the bar.

I'll PM my mobile in case you wish to meet up in the ClubHouse before the flight.

Yes a ryokan is the only place where a tip is acceptable, but tip your Nakai san when you get to your room and put it in an envelope, if you can a Shugi Bukuro which is an envelope for money gifts. Present it with both hands and say "Domo arigato gozaimas". She will try to reject it out of politeness but it will show you understand the culture a little.
Hardly anyone at a ryokan will speak English but you'll have fun communicating, and the food is awesome!

I thought that shūgi-bukuro were for Japanese weddings?

We have Red envelopes purchased in Hong Kong for monetary gifts but, to demonstrate that we are English, we always travel outbound with one suitcase packed with Earl Grey, Yorkshire and Lancashire tea, Scottish shortbread, Duchy of Cornwall, Tunnocks Wafers and other suitable biscuits.

We leave a box of tea and a packet of biscuits, with a note for housekeeping, each morning.

Staying in the Sydney Langham in May, required some minor skill to ensure that the tea and biscuit match was never repeated, as I was there for eight days. The Concierge, also, received a steady stream of tea and biscuits for his assistance in getting me into certain restaurants (yes, I will get around to the TR!).

The language differential is part of the fun; outside of the major hotels English is definitely a less well known language and even with 'translation' in the minority of restaurants that do this, there is a certain comedy value, and that is not meant in a disrespectful manner.

I have my Japanese phrase book and a 'teach yourself Japanese' CD; I'll see how well I do!

I second everything Bretty said too!!
@keyetty wow 16 years!! nice!!
I guess its the same though for me living here in UK, I can count on one hand how many places I have visited in Europe!!
Our next trip to Japan (my seventh time) will be only to Tokyo!! Im looking forward to it.

NV43 - dont know how your schedule is panning out but Kanezawa is also possible as a day trip from Kyoto, there is an amazing castle there!!. I think the new bullet train service from Tokyo to Kanezawa doesnt start till spring 2015.
If you are in to Castles then there is also a nice one at Himeji which you will be able to see from the shinkansen on your way to Hiroshima. Like Bretty I was also really moved in Hiroshima, it was a very emotional day. I have to admit that I could not finish the whole of the museum, I had to leave half way through.
Ah forgot to say that if you want to get a view of Mount Fuji then sit on the right side of the train when travelling to Kyoto from Tokyo.
Looking forward to hearing about your trip.
We have been making a list of possible restaurants to go to in Tokyo!

gfonk

Thank you again; we are looking forward to those restaurant suggestions.

It's all about the food!

Hi NV43
it definitely is all about the food for sure. I have not yet actually stayed in a ryokan (somehow) but as Bretty says the food will be amazing for sure.

Tokyo has more michelin star restaurants than any city on the planet, but doesnt equal that the restaurants are expensive or pretentious. We had ramen in a tiny place on the top floor of a department store and my missus pointed out that that place also had a michelin star! best bowl of ramen for like £7!!

gfonk

Tim Ho Wan, in Hong Kong, is another illustration that Michelin starred restaurants are about the food and not, necessarily, about the price and decor.

I think, without googling, that there must be close on 200 starred restaurants in Tokyo?

We have eaten out of this world Ramen in Tokyo; I'm now salivating and need to go and eat!

There are elaborate Shugi Bukuro for weddings, and then simple ones for other events with rabbits or cranes on them but any envelope will do.

I like your style with the tea and biscuits, very nice.

In a ryokan you may be faced with food that is challenging depending on your tastes. I tried snails, big ones, in a ryokan but thought they were meh. We spoke to some other tourists who'd stayed at a ryokan and one dish was brought to their table still alive and prepared in front of them!

gfonk

Tim Ho Wan, in Hong Kong, is another illustration that Michelin starred restaurants are about the food and not, necessarily, about the price and decor.

I think, without googling, that there must be close on 200 starred restaurants in Tokyo?

We have eaten out of this world Ramen in Tokyo; I'm now salivating and need to go and eat!

so true!! even in "normal" restaurants the food is presented like art but not only that, it actually tastes amazing too!!!

I made the mistake of picking up what I thought was a donut in a convenience store once only to be interestingly surprised to find I hadnt read the curry bit infront of donut lol its nicer than it sounds lol
ah soooo hungry now!!! I can just smell ramen!! LOL

Fantastic, a Japan thread ^) Interesting and helpful posts. Glad to hear you are going to be staying longer than 4 nights this time NV43! I have to agree, just 4 nights was a bit bonkers

We are off to Japan, our first trip there, in 4 months and I am over-excited to say the least.

There is a real tendency to try and pack in too much in one trip, so I am constantly pruning our trip down as I do not want to rush around but take it all calmly with time to absorb get a feel for the culture, which is by all accounts quite different to ours at times!

You have a good collection of guide books which will help. FlyerTalk has a forum on Japan which I have found useful as some Japan residents post on there and some seasoned Japan visitors.

Our 15 day trip starts in Tokyo (4 nights at the Hotel Niwa). This will be a fairly full-on set of days. We had planned side trips to Nara and Kamakura but on advice we are just going to the latter now as there is too much in Tokyo to see in that time.

We are getting a JR pass and heading off to Takayama for 2 nights to stay in two different Ryokans (Oyado Koto No Yume and Honjin Hiranoya Kachoan). I suspect each one will have their own different styles and it will be interesting to compare. We will also head out to Shirakawa-go whilst there, which is a must-see a friend tells me).

We will then be moving on to Kyoto for 4 nights, with a side trip to Nara. Kyoto seems to get the thumbs-up from everyone who visits there and often out-trumps Tokyo in reviews. We are staying at a small hotel (Hotel Mume). This will be followed by a trip to Hiroshima for a night with a side trip to Miyajima. The next day we are heading back to Tokyo with a morning stop in Himeji to see the castle which has been restored and re-opens in March.

One night back in Tokyo at the Tokyo Station Hotel (very convenient) and the next day we are having a real treat for my birthday. We are staying at another ryokan in Kawaguchiko (Kozantei Ubuya). This has wonderful view of Fuji-san which to me is the first thing I think of when Japan is mentioned. Our room has a great views of the lake and mountain which is just as well as it is not cheap but I figure I am worth it ):

We then head back to Tokyo for a final night at the Tokyo station Hotel.

There are so many options but the planning is half the fun.

We decided to miss out Osaka as there is little there that appeals and also Hakone, which is rather touristy in April when we go (it is near Golden Week, Japans major holiday).

If you are using the train then check out Hyperdia http://www.hyperdia.com/en/

It has all the train times and connections. Make sure you uncheck NOZOMI / MIZUHO / HAYABUSA (SHINKANSEN) as the JP Pass is not valid on these Shinkansen and also Private Railway (although for some trip you may need to pay extra for use of private rail lines to get to your destination). Overall the JP pass looks excellent value. the green pass would allow first class reserved seats and offers quieter carriages should you will, at just a little more expense).

We are flying ANA Business after VS dumped the route but to be honest, I am quite pleased as it looks excellent and I will start the Japan experience just a little earlier

If you are travelling around, do consider sending luggage on using Takuhaibin. This means you can travel lighter on the trains and it is by all accounts a very reliable service.

From the look of it Japan is going to have an influx of visiting V-Flyers next year!

In a ryokan you may be faced with food that is challenging depending on your tastes. I tried snails, big ones, in a ryokan but thought they were meh. We spoke to some other tourists who'd stayed at a ryokan and one dish was brought to their table still alive and prepared in front of them!

Ye Gods Bretty! :0 I am a vegetarian

But I have decided for our Japan trip to just eat what is given to me in the Ryokan as it will cause far too much confusion trying to get them to adapt a Kaiseki meal for me. And it's not that I dislike meat, I just have "issues". But eating gastropods will be step too far for me :$

In a ryokan you may be faced with food that is challenging depending on your tastes. I tried snails, big ones, in a ryokan but thought they were meh. We spoke to some other tourists who'd stayed at a ryokan and one dish was brought to their table still alive and prepared in front of them!

Ye Gods Bretty! :0 I am a vegetarian

But I have decided for our Japan trip to just eat what is given to me in the Ryokan as it will cause far too much confusion trying to get them to adapt a Kaiseki meal for me. And it's not that I dislike meat, I just have "issues". But eating gastropods will be step too far for me :$

Lol, it is worth telling the ryokans in advance that you're vegetarian, as long as they have notice they will accommodate, and japanese do great vegetarian food. Otherwise you will get fish / crustaceans / gastropods with each course, and usually (depending on where you are) one meat course, normally wagyu beef or similar. Tofu features a lot too.

At our last trip on our first night in the second ryokan the Nakai san realised my OH wasn't coping well with all the fish, so arranged for the chef to alter his menu the following night. He doesn't like tofu much either, but didn't memtion this, and ended up with most of his fish dishes replaced with tofu and some veg, but still only one meat course. Bless him, he stuck it out because they'd been so accommodating.

Maximus

I've already spotted Takuhaibin but, most of the Tokyo hotels will store our larger suitcase; we just need enough clothes, tea and biscuits to get around!

We can always purchase more T-shits, socks and underclothes; the tea and biscuits can be replaced by the laundry bag (not in the same case, of course).

Japan Rail FC, will be our choice.

NV and Lauren

true maximus - looks like there will be lots of vfyers off to japan in the coming year.
im already excited and have booked all hotels, though on this trip we will stay in tokyo we are staying in three hotels, first our favourite in shinjuku for six nights then on to the conrad for four nights then finishing off with five nights at the shangri la.

i would agree that in many ways kyoto is one of the nicest places to visit in japan and in fact the first time i visited i preferred it over tokyo but now i find that i really enjoy tokyo. i found tokyo spun me out at first but now that my japanese is improving and i have figured out how to use the special rapid trains i really enjoy tokyo.
we always go with at least three cases, at least half full with things to give to friends and family but have come back with five cases plus carry ons and usually ship out several boxes. next time we will utilise kuroneko for shipping most things back to blighty and try to survive with just three cases lol.
i do agree with maximus that when taking train travelling light is better but the other option which we did last time was to take a green car (i guess equivalent of a first class fare) and sit in the back row because there is enough space behind the rear seats for two large suitcases. we only did that because we only took one return journey on the nozomi tokyo-kyoto(local train to osaka and nozomi from osaka to tokyo).
we normally stay at a LHR hotel but this time decided to stay in london the night before.all i have to do now is book the CDCs in london and tokyo.
and i will be getting packing a la bretty at christmas.hehe

Thanks for the seat tip gfonk. We will use Takuhaibin to transport the heavier luggage from Tokyo to Kyoto and back and so travel light to Takayama, Hiroshima and Kawaguchiko. I am really looking forward to travelling on the Shinkansen. We decided to get the Green passes as the carriages are quieter and I can have a wee nap between cities ][|)

gfonk and Bretty

I suspect that Hiroshima will be quite emotional.

Growing up near RAF Finningley, during the Cold War, was a constant reminder that everything might, simply, become dust.

That was, as a child.

Subsequently, and possibly due to my childhood experiences, I did decide on a what was to transpire to be a very interesting career.

I have, in my collection, a Post Card signed by every crew member of Enola Gay.

I'm intending to take it with me on our trip.

Jesus, reading this thread reminds me that in spite of having lived here for most of my life I forgot how many awesome places there are outside of my salaryman lifestyle.

Jesus, reading this thread reminds me that in spite of having lived here for most of my life I forgot how many awesome places there are outside of my salaryman lifestyle.

lol kawaiso (poor ryosan) yes I guess being a salaryman in Tokyo means you probably miss a lot of what the tourist sees.

Whenever I am in Tokyo I just get this sense that Tokyo is just Relentless!
I love it but can only imagine what living there must be like.

gfonk

It was great to meet you, albeit briefly, at the December social.

I'll look forward to your, anticipated, additional input, before making our final arrangements.

NV